Sunday, August 20, 2006
Day 6 - Drive to Arenal
We took the “back route” to Arenal turning north on to highway 4 and going through Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui, San Miguel, and San Carlos. It was a pleasant and easy drive with abrely any other traffic and took us about five and a half hours to get to La Fortuna pretty much without stopping. The highway brought us directly into town and we continued on toward the volcano and our hotel which was 2km past the town of La Fortuna proper. Just as we checked into our hotel, La Pradera, we got a glimpse of the volcano and then it started to rain pretty hard. Our room was decent and had a small porch area with chairs to admire the volcano and was worth the $65/night price (tax and breakfast included)
Since we hadn’t eaten since breakfast, we were hungry so we drove back to La Fortuna and ate a somewhat pricey Mexican lunch at Las Brasitas. It started raining really hard. Too hard to even make it back to the car so we ended up lingering over our Imperials a bit longer than we wanted. The rain finally let up and we walked around the town of La Fortuna for a bit before heading back to La Pradera where we hung out in the rather uninspiring bar and the watched the soccer highlights on TV and the bartender explained about the local teams and rivalries. We then went for a nighttime swim and afterwards craved something sweet so drove back to La Fortuna for an ice cream at Volcan Cone and a nightcap at the karaoke bar where we heard a girl with a amazing voice belting out some Diana Ross songs. After returning to the hotel we still couldn’t see but could hear a rhythmic thumping sound coming from the volcano
Saturday, August 19, 2006
Day 5 - Puerto Viejo

After leaving the vet clinic we stopped by a roadside stand where a woman was selling some tasty frozen mango juice in plastic bags where you bite off a corner and suck the frozen juice out. Collin also bought some fresh eggs and fruit from her and we then headed back to Puerto Viejo stopping at the school in Hone Creek where Roberto is a teacher and watched the kids play drums in the soccer field.


We were a little low on gas so we went into town and bought two gallons from a local guy who sells it out of his house from cans. He only marks each gallon up a few hundred colonies so it was a pretty good deal.
We then drove up to Cahuita for lunch but the restaurant, Cha Cha Cha, which was recommended was closed. The town seemed pretty dead but there were people around the national park so we ate at the National Park Café and watched kids playing with a soccer ball on the beach.

We drove back to Banana Azul, had a swim in the ocean and then headed into town for dinner. Since it was Saturday night the town was quite packed with people walking around. We ended up eating at Café Rojo (excellent curry) and a late cocktail at El Dorado before heading back and going to bed.

Friday, August 18, 2006
Day 4 - Puerto Viejo


On the way back we stopped at a local ingenious family’s house where the mother showed us how she made chocolate from the coco bean. Very interesting! We then bought various chocolates and brownies flavored with nutmeg, mint, and clove. All were delicious!

After getting back we went into town for lunch and ended up at Amimodo, a Italian restaurant on the southern edge of town right by the water. We sat outside with a view of the ocean and had some pretty tasty antipasto and pizza. We then checked our email at the internet café and then had some drinks back at El Dorado (becoming our local watering hole). After going back to Banana Azul for a dip in the ocean we drove to Playa Chaquita with Collin, Roberto and the other guests for an awesome dinner at Jungle Love. After returning to Banana Azul, Roberto and I stayed up talking and drinking beer until pretty late.


Thursday, August 17, 2006
Day 3 - Puerto Viejo
After breakfast we decided to head down and check out the beaches towards Manzanillo. Kay from El Dorado said to turn left after the third bridge past Punta Uva but we couldn’t find it and ended up at the end of the road in Manzanillo. We took a turn towards the Marisqueria Arrecife restaurant and ended up at a picture perfect beach that only contained about 12 other people as far as we could see. After a few hours on the beach and swimming we were getting hungry so we drove back north a little bit to the other side of Punta Uva where we had some tasty casados at the Ranchito Beach Restaurant.


After driving back to Banana Azul we met up with the other guests and all headed into town for dinner at El Loco Natural. AWESOME food and live Caribbean style music consisting of a guy singing and playing electric guitar accompanied by another guy playing a homemade standup bass.
Wednesday, August 16, 2006
Day 2 - Drive to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
After breakfast the driver from Tricolor car rental arrived right on time at 9am. He didn’t speak much English but we finally figured out that we needed to go with him back to the office at the airport (last time they just dropped off the car and did the paperwork at the hotel). We checked out of the hotel, loaded our luggage in the rental and headed to the office near the airport. The paper work was completed quickly and we were on the road an hour later at 10am.
After filling up the gas tank, we followed directions to avoid downtown San Jose on the way to the highway that would take us to the Caribbean coast but took a wrong turn somewhere, got lost and ended up in downtown San Jose. After consulting the map in the Lonely Planet book we were able to get our bearings. The Holiday Inn was a good, tall landmark located near the road that leads to the highway and we quickly found our way out of the city.
The drive to Puerto Viejo wasn’t bad. There is a toll booth just out of San Jose so it’s a good idea to have some colonies ready (I don’t know if they accept dollars). The highway was in good condition, traffic was fairly light and it rained most of the way to Limon. We saw a few trafficos (traffic police) but since it was raining they seemed more interested in staying dry inside their police cars then pulling anybody over. Once in Limon there was a huge traffic jam that lasted for several blocks until we were able to make the turn south to Puerto Viejo.
The radio stations in Costa Rica that play English music are really eclectic in their selection of music. For example, the Rolling Stones will be followed by Tears for Fears which would be followed by The Bee Gees. Costa Rica seems to be the land of the B sides. I heard songs that I haven’t heard in ages!
We arrived at our bed and breakfast, Banana Azul, which is located about a mile north of town in Playa Negra at 3pm. Our hosts, Collin and Roberto were not there but the caretaker, Alfredo and another guest, Sherri, let us in and helped us get settled into our room. Banana Azul is composed of two buildings, one contains two guest rooms (the “Sloth Cabanas”) above where Alfredo lives and the other building contains our room (”The Red Frog Room”) which is underneath where Collin and Roberto live. They are also building a small 6 room hotel on the property as well. The room was even nicer looking than the pictures on their web page. The property is located right on the beach and was probably less than 100 steps from our door to the water.

We were hungry so we drove into town and walked around looking for somewhere to eat, have a beer, and do some people watching. We ended up at El Dorado which is located on the main street. It turned out that the bartender Kay (pronounced K-eye) had lived just a few blocks from us in San Francisco! I had a yummy quesodilla and Kat had a chicken casado.
We then went to the store to get a few beers and headed back to Banana Azul where we met Roberto who gave us a tour of the rest of the house and property. We then went to the beach for a swim with two of their dogs Sasha and Quira tagging along. After a quick shower we went back town for some dinner. It seemed like all the recommended restaurants were closed on Wednesdays so we went back to El Dorado and had a small pizza. We got back to Banana Azul and met another couple, Richard and Charlotte, who just arrived and then we went to bed.